1802 Roasters
The best bagel in Los Angeles is found where you least expect it.
As a journalist, I’m frequently taken by complete surprise. The amount of times I’ve made an assumption and had to eat my words is beyond count. The place I’m going to tell you about today is one of those times.
And it turns out that eating words isn’t very satisfying. I’d rather eat bagels.
The first time I tried 1802 Roasters was on a sunny morning in Los Angeles sometime last year, when I awoke at a friend’s house after arriving from the Bay Area very late the night before.
Wandering out into the living room, I beheld a friend drinking what appeared to be a bougie latte. It was one of those ridiculous sounding concoctions that are far too commonly sold in LA for about $18 a piece.
“What’s that?” I asked.
“Oh, nothing, it’s just an organic, lavender, matcha, moonbeam, blood orange shrub with ethically sourced pieces of Amethyst for ice.”
(It was actually something way simpler, but the point I’m making is that it was fancy and probably expensive).
“It’s really good,” the friend continued. “It’s from this place just down the block. They have great bagels, too.”
Yeah right, I thought to myself. The friend in question is from Texas, and therefore easily impressed by both moonbeam lattes and mediocre bagels.
Still, it was morning, and I was in need of coffee. So down the block I went.
I ordered a black coffee and a bagel with cream cheese. And that bagel was so delicious… so shockingly delightful… and from such a seemingly random location, that I vowed one day to return and give it a proper review.
That day has come.
The first thing to know about 1802 Roasters is that it is low key. The facade looks like it could be a bodega.
It seems like they haven’t even fully decided on the name. The sign says Café 1802. Google (and their website) says 1802 Roasters. To make matters even more confusing, the sandwich board says “Saint-Raf Bagels,” as if to imply that the bagels come from a separate place called Saint-Raf, which would make sense. Frequently, coffee shops source baked goods from separate bakeries. But when I ask the woman at the counter where the bagels come from, she tells me they’re baked right here on site.
What is going on here? Who is Saint-Raf? Are they the patron saint of bagels? Why is their name hyphenated? And what - in the name of all that is holy - is the meaning behind the number 1802? Because it’s not the street address, that would be 1206 Cypress Avenue.
I do not know the answer to any of these questions. And frankly, I don’t care.
In a city absolutely dominated by slick and glossy marketing campaigns and viral social media sensations (see my review of Calic Bagels), the total lack of branding consistency in this place only makes me respect it more.
The inside of 1802 is a bit more spruced up than the exterior. But simplicity remains the order of the day. It’s modern, but it’s not trying too hard.
I step up to the counter and order an everything bagel (not toasted) with cream cheese ($6). And because I’ve already drank about a gallon of coffee this morning, I decide to try a fancy looking soda for $4. I don’t know what’s come over me, but I am actually enjoying this trend of fancy soda options that’s been happening lately. Let’s be honest, soda is delicious. But if you’re over the age of 10, it’s hard to justify drinking one, unless it’s at the movies.
Quick sidenote: last year I developed a Diet Coke habit that was fully out of control. I’m almost certain they put something illegal in that recipe that makes it more addicting than cigarettes. But even the most surface level research will reveal that Coca Cola is one of the most evil, unethical corporations on the planet. So with great effort, I kicked the habit.
Now, I drink those Olipop Sodas they sell at health food stores. Good lord, what have I become. Please don’t tell my friends from New Jersey.
1802 sells a similar variety called United Sodas that are marketed as organic, natural, etc. I bought the “pop cherry” flavor for $4. It’s good. Not too sweet, with a nice tart cherry note and a very pretty color that’s like a pale shade of pink.
We really do live in a changing world, and nothing exemplifies that more than the colors of foods. Back when I was a kid in the 90s, it was totally normal for drinks to be fully saturated over-the-top artificial colors. Remember Hawaiian Punch? Isn’t it absurd that we used to feed that to children?
In the year 2025, as climate apocalypse kicks into high gear and fascism makes a comeback, at least we can all agree that maybe we shouldn’t make foods bright red and electric blue.
Enough about sodas, let’s talk about bagels.
1802 presents theirs on a minimalist bamboo tray that looks like it was made for sushi or some similar Japanese delicacy.
They only have 6 flavors to offer: everything, sesame, salt and pepper, plain, onion, and the conspicuous purple “ube” (which is a purple sweet potato originally from the Philippines).
I originally mistook the ube for pumpernickel. But this is no Jewish deli. Gone are the flowing baskets of bagels that I love so much. Those are relegated to the back of the store, where you can barely see them.
Everything about this presentation I find annoying. I mean, look at them… they’re on a literal pedestal. The whole vibe connotes bagel as “delicacy,” which it is not. It is a working person’s bread, nothing more, nothing less.
My bagel comes out promptly, in just 2 minutes, which is something to like about this place: there’s basically no one here. No lines, no fuss, no problems.
Unwrapping the bagel, I do find something else to complain about. Can you guess what it is?
Yup. Like nearly every single bagel store in California, they’ve failed to slice it in half. I feel like I am shouting into the void here, but I’ll do it again.
ATTENTION CALIFORNIA: Will you please take the one extra step and cut your damn bagels in half!?!?
People say the United States is a first world country. But when you get a bagel like this, you really start doubting that.
And that is where my complaining stops. Because everything from here onwards is absolute bliss.
Taking a bite of this bagel is pure heaven. Crispy on the outside, incredibly soft and doughy on the inside, with a damn near perfect al dente chew that beats out half the bagels in New York.
Let’s talk about the seeds. This thing is absolutely COVERED. A textural delight, just the way I like it. If you look closely, you’ll see black sesame seeds in addition to white ones. It’s a classy touch that adds a pop of color contrast in addition to flavor.
One of the reasons I tend to complain so much about uncut bagels is that when you bite into them from the round side, the cream cheese has a tendency to squirt out, due to all the pressure put on one side of the bagel. I don’t know why cutting it fixes this problem, but it usually does.
But the bagels at 1802 are so soft and perfect, this isn’t a problem at all. You can actually tear them apart with ease, and enjoy them “rip n dip” style if you want.
If you’re wondering about the cream cheese, it’s fresh, tasty, and generously portioned. Is it squirting out the bagussy? No, not quite. But it’s pretty damn close.
FINAL THOUGHTS
Everything about this place tees me up to be annoyed. But in the end, 1802 Roasters (or is it Café 1802? Or Saint-Raf Bagels?) is the best bagel I have yet tried in Los Angeles. Readers know I do not make this claim lightly. The quality is basically on par with Poppy Bagels in Oakland, but without the huge line and ridiculously inflated prices.
The best thing about this place is that it still remains totally under the radar. So please, I beg of you, do not blow up the spot. Sneak out your backdoor, drive to 1206 Cypress Ave, enjoy their bagels, and tell no one but your closest confidants. Do this every day for the rest of your life and you will unlock the secret to happiness.
WEST COAST: 10
EAST COAST: 9
